Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and visitors alike celebrating its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, Unesco designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious roster of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it enters a global network of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "stands as proof of its centuries-old culinary traditions and lively gastronomic culture," as stated by a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this historic city is no surprise to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, lively, and vibrant city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the spotlight for what has always characterized its soul: an immense love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing dialogue from waking up until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and elevated to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates seasonal produce but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on every corner, there are little shops and stalls – hidden delights that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a no-frills joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and complicated. The cook hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however say that their younger generation are reluctant to learn the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will motivate more people around the world to discover these narratives and visit the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
